I woke up early this morning to make arnica lavender salve and lavender essential oil. The salve is for sale at Confluence and on Etsy. It smells scrumptious and naturally calms sore muscles and heals bruises. Ingredients include arnica, lavender, olive oil and beeswax, 100% natural and made by me. I grow and harvest the lavender and harvest the arnica along the scenic trails of the North Cascades.
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Wednesday, August 31, 2011
A Morning With Arnica and Lavender Oils
I woke up early this morning to make arnica lavender salve and lavender essential oil. The salve is for sale at Confluence and on Etsy. It smells scrumptious and naturally calms sore muscles and heals bruises. Ingredients include arnica, lavender, olive oil and beeswax, 100% natural and made by me. I grow and harvest the lavender and harvest the arnica along the scenic trails of the North Cascades.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Port Brownies
These brownies are moist, creamy, rich, and perfectly sweet with surprise cherry bites and a hint of port...
Ingredients:
2 sticks butter
8 oz semi-sweet chocolate chips
4 large eggs
1 3/4 C granulated sugar
1/4 C Port
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 C flour
1/4 C unsweetened cocoa powder
1 C additional semi-sweet chocolate chips
2 hands full of cherries (I use frozen)
Directions:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
- Grease two 13"x9" baking pans.
- Place the butter and chocolate chips in the top of a double boiler over hot water. Stir the mixture until the butter and chocolate are melted and smooth. Remove and let stand to cool.
- In a large bowl, whip together the eggs and sugar. Add port and cooled butter mixture.
- Blend flour, salt, baking soda and cocoa. Fold in extra chocolate chips.
- Add cherries. Mix until smooth.
- Pour batter into prepared pans and bake for 35-40 mins or until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.
- Serve with vanilla ice cream.
Ingredients:
2 sticks butter
8 oz semi-sweet chocolate chips
4 large eggs
1 3/4 C granulated sugar
1/4 C Port
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 C flour
1/4 C unsweetened cocoa powder
1 C additional semi-sweet chocolate chips
2 hands full of cherries (I use frozen)
Directions:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
- Grease two 13"x9" baking pans.
- Place the butter and chocolate chips in the top of a double boiler over hot water. Stir the mixture until the butter and chocolate are melted and smooth. Remove and let stand to cool.
- In a large bowl, whip together the eggs and sugar. Add port and cooled butter mixture.
- Blend flour, salt, baking soda and cocoa. Fold in extra chocolate chips.
- Add cherries. Mix until smooth.
- Pour batter into prepared pans and bake for 35-40 mins or until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.
- Serve with vanilla ice cream.
Monday, August 22, 2011
Harvesting Garlic
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| Some of our garlic prior to brush and trim |
To harvest your garlic, gently lift it from the ground when the bulbs have reached a good size and before the wrappers begin to deteriorate or the bulbs begin to split open. If a bulb is not well-wrapped, and the skins on the cloves are not intact, the garlic will not keep well.
We use a flat, narrow-bladed shovel to loosen the ground beside the garlic and lift the plants by hand. Be very careful since garlic bruises easily.
Garlic sunburns quickly (some varieties even change flavor when left in the sun), so take each bucket load directly to your drying rack as soon as it is harvested.
Gourmet Garlic Gardens offers comprehensive information on how to preserve your garlic once it has cured.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Growing Broccoli
We harvested a whole bunch of large-headed broccoli flowers tonight, alongside a bucket of gold potatoes. Although this has been an aphid-prolific year, we harvested the most abundant batch of broccoli to-date.
Barbara Pleasant offers a detailed tutorial in Mother Earth News on how to plant, grow and harvest broccoli, plus pest prevention tips and types to try:
Tasty in each of its many varieties, broccoli is easier to grow than its relatives cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, and can produce bountiful crops for even novice gardeners.
As the most popular member of the cabbage family, broccoli is always in high demand at the table. This cool-weather crop is best grown in spring or fall, and tastes sweetest when it matures in autumn, when nights turn chilly. Broccoli seeds sprout best when soil temperatures range between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Broccoli Types to Try
Large-headed varieties produce the familiar domed heads that are composed of numerous clustered florets. Many large-headed varieties produce smaller side shoots after the primary head is harvested.
Sprouting varieties grow into bushier plants that produce numerous small heads. These varieties are at their best when grown from fall to spring in mild winter climates.
Romanesco varieties produce elegantly swirled heads composed of symmetrically pointed spirals. These large plants need plenty of space, excellent soil and good growing conditions to do well.
Broccoli raab is grown for its immature flower buds, which have a stronger flavor than regular broccoli. Broccoli raab (closely related to turnips) is popular in Asian and Italian cooking.
Check out our chart of broccoli types, which includes descriptions and growing tips for each.
When insect pressure is light, keep plants healthy by watching them closely and picking pests by hand. Weekly sprays with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) or spinosad will control cabbageworms, the most serious broccoli pest.
Plants that suddenly collapse may have been hit by cabbage root maggots, which are rice-sized fly larvae that feed on broccoli roots. In areas where this pest has been seen before, plant seedlings deeply, pressing the soil firmly around the stems. Prevent adults from laying eggs by covering the ground around each plant with a square of window screen or lightweight cloth.
Harvesting and Storing Broccoli
Harvest broccoli heads when the florets around the edges of the head begin to show slight loosening, but when the beads in most of the crown are still tight.
Cut the stems at an angle — this will keep water from pooling inside the cut stem and causing rot. Refrigerate the cut heads immediately. To get top home-preserved quality, steam-blanch broccoli before freezing it. Continue to water the plants after harvest, as most varieties will produce secondary heads.
Watch broccoli raab closely, and harvest just as the first flowers show their yellow petals. Sprouting broccoli and broccoli raab are also cut-and-come-again crops that produce a second flush of buds after the first ones have been harvested.
When plants are spaced 18 inches apart, average yields are about 1 pound of broccoli per foot of row. Three to four plants per person is sufficient for fresh summer eating, but you should triple that number if you want a freezer crop for winter.
Saving Broccoli Seeds
Most broccoli varieties must be exposed to winter chilling before they will flower heavily, but plants die if exposed to single-digit temperatures. Because of this, most seed is produced in mild winter areas.
Isolate plants to keep broccoli from crossing with cabbage, kale and other close cabbage cousins. Broccoli raab will cross with turnips.
Harvest seeds when the slender pods dry to tan and the seeds inside are dark brown or black. Select the largest, most perfect seeds for planting.
Fresh from the garden, broccoli has an unbeatable, sweet and gourmet flavor....
Broccoli seeds will keep for five years when stored in cool, dry, dark conditions. Test seeds that are more than three years old before relying on them for a main crop — just put a few in a wet paper towel for five days to confirm they will sprout.
Barbara Pleasant offers a detailed tutorial in Mother Earth News on how to plant, grow and harvest broccoli, plus pest prevention tips and types to try:
 |
| This Year's Broccoli Harvest |
Tasty in each of its many varieties, broccoli is easier to grow than its relatives cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, and can produce bountiful crops for even novice gardeners.
As the most popular member of the cabbage family, broccoli is always in high demand at the table. This cool-weather crop is best grown in spring or fall, and tastes sweetest when it matures in autumn, when nights turn chilly. Broccoli seeds sprout best when soil temperatures range between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Broccoli Types to Try
Large-headed varieties produce the familiar domed heads that are composed of numerous clustered florets. Many large-headed varieties produce smaller side shoots after the primary head is harvested.
Sprouting varieties grow into bushier plants that produce numerous small heads. These varieties are at their best when grown from fall to spring in mild winter climates.
Romanesco varieties produce elegantly swirled heads composed of symmetrically pointed spirals. These large plants need plenty of space, excellent soil and good growing conditions to do well.
Broccoli raab is grown for its immature flower buds, which have a stronger flavor than regular broccoli. Broccoli raab (closely related to turnips) is popular in Asian and Italian cooking.
Check out our chart of broccoli types, which includes descriptions and growing tips for each.
When to Plant Broccoli
For a summer harvest, start seeds indoors six weeks before your last spring frost, and set out hardened-off seedlings when they’re about four weeks old. You can also seed broccoli directly into a nursery bed and transplant the seedlings to your garden. Direct-sow broccoli raab starting three weeks before your last frost.
For a fall harvest, start seeds indoors 12 to 14 weeks before your first fall frost, and set the seedlings out when they’re four to six weeks old. Direct-sow broccoli raab starting eight weeks before your first fall frost. (To find your last spring or first fall frost dates, see Garden Planning: It’s All About When.)
For a summer harvest, start seeds indoors six weeks before your last spring frost, and set out hardened-off seedlings when they’re about four weeks old. You can also seed broccoli directly into a nursery bed and transplant the seedlings to your garden. Direct-sow broccoli raab starting three weeks before your last frost.
For a fall harvest, start seeds indoors 12 to 14 weeks before your first fall frost, and set the seedlings out when they’re four to six weeks old. Direct-sow broccoli raab starting eight weeks before your first fall frost. (To find your last spring or first fall frost dates, see Garden Planning: It’s All About When.)
 |
| More of Our Harvest |
How to Plant Broccoli
Broccoli is a heavy feeder, and plants take up nutrients best when the soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0. Choose a sunny site with fertile, well-drained soil. Loosen the planting bed and mix in up to 1 inch of mature compost. Unless your soil is very fertile, also mix in a high-nitrogen organic fertilizer such as alfalfa meal or composted poultry manure. Water the bed thoroughly before setting out seedlings. Allow 18 to 20 inches between plants. Dwarf varieties can be planted 12 inches apart.
Broccoli Pest and Disease Prevention Tips
Leaf-eating caterpillars — including army worms, cabbageworms and cabbage loopers — like to feast on broccoli leaves. In summer, harlequin bugs and grasshoppers can devastate young plants. Prevent these problems by growing plants beneath row covers. Read The No-spray Way to Protect Plants for details on using row covers.
Broccoli is a heavy feeder, and plants take up nutrients best when the soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0. Choose a sunny site with fertile, well-drained soil. Loosen the planting bed and mix in up to 1 inch of mature compost. Unless your soil is very fertile, also mix in a high-nitrogen organic fertilizer such as alfalfa meal or composted poultry manure. Water the bed thoroughly before setting out seedlings. Allow 18 to 20 inches between plants. Dwarf varieties can be planted 12 inches apart.
Broccoli Pest and Disease Prevention Tips
Leaf-eating caterpillars — including army worms, cabbageworms and cabbage loopers — like to feast on broccoli leaves. In summer, harlequin bugs and grasshoppers can devastate young plants. Prevent these problems by growing plants beneath row covers. Read The No-spray Way to Protect Plants for details on using row covers.
When insect pressure is light, keep plants healthy by watching them closely and picking pests by hand. Weekly sprays with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) or spinosad will control cabbageworms, the most serious broccoli pest.
Plants that suddenly collapse may have been hit by cabbage root maggots, which are rice-sized fly larvae that feed on broccoli roots. In areas where this pest has been seen before, plant seedlings deeply, pressing the soil firmly around the stems. Prevent adults from laying eggs by covering the ground around each plant with a square of window screen or lightweight cloth.
Harvesting and Storing Broccoli
Harvest broccoli heads when the florets around the edges of the head begin to show slight loosening, but when the beads in most of the crown are still tight.
Cut the stems at an angle — this will keep water from pooling inside the cut stem and causing rot. Refrigerate the cut heads immediately. To get top home-preserved quality, steam-blanch broccoli before freezing it. Continue to water the plants after harvest, as most varieties will produce secondary heads.
Watch broccoli raab closely, and harvest just as the first flowers show their yellow petals. Sprouting broccoli and broccoli raab are also cut-and-come-again crops that produce a second flush of buds after the first ones have been harvested.
When plants are spaced 18 inches apart, average yields are about 1 pound of broccoli per foot of row. Three to four plants per person is sufficient for fresh summer eating, but you should triple that number if you want a freezer crop for winter.
Saving Broccoli Seeds
Most broccoli varieties must be exposed to winter chilling before they will flower heavily, but plants die if exposed to single-digit temperatures. Because of this, most seed is produced in mild winter areas.
Isolate plants to keep broccoli from crossing with cabbage, kale and other close cabbage cousins. Broccoli raab will cross with turnips.
Harvest seeds when the slender pods dry to tan and the seeds inside are dark brown or black. Select the largest, most perfect seeds for planting.
Fresh from the garden, broccoli has an unbeatable, sweet and gourmet flavor....
Broccoli seeds will keep for five years when stored in cool, dry, dark conditions. Test seeds that are more than three years old before relying on them for a main crop — just put a few in a wet paper towel for five days to confirm they will sprout.
Broccoli Growing Tips
Experiment with planting dates, which vary widely by climate. Striving for very early crops can backfire, as seedlings exposed to cold often “button,” meaning they produce tiny heads. Start by trying spring and fall planting dates recommended by your neighbors or your local extension service.
Grow several varieties to extend your harvest and to help buffer your crop from stressful weather. Varieties react differently to wet, dry, hot or cold periods.
If you have less-than-ideal soil, give plants extra nitrogen just as small heads begin to form. You can drench them with an organic mix-with-water fertilizer, mulch with well-rotted manure, or scratch a dusting of any high-nitrogen organic fertilizer into the soil around the plants.
Weed often and mulch deeply to get the highest yields from your broccoli. Two inches of grass clippings or any other biodegradable mulch will keep the soil cool, the way broccoli likes it.
Cooking with Broccoli
Broccoli is a nutritional superfood that will strengthen your immune system, help maintain strong bones, and help protect you from cancer and heart disease. Broccoli is delicious raw, or you can steam florets for a minute and then plunge them into ice water before serving as finger food. Eat the stems by peeling away chewy outer skin, slicing them, and then cooking them along with the florets. Garden-fresh broccoli is tender, so be careful not to overcook it.
Experiment with planting dates, which vary widely by climate. Striving for very early crops can backfire, as seedlings exposed to cold often “button,” meaning they produce tiny heads. Start by trying spring and fall planting dates recommended by your neighbors or your local extension service.
Grow several varieties to extend your harvest and to help buffer your crop from stressful weather. Varieties react differently to wet, dry, hot or cold periods.
If you have less-than-ideal soil, give plants extra nitrogen just as small heads begin to form. You can drench them with an organic mix-with-water fertilizer, mulch with well-rotted manure, or scratch a dusting of any high-nitrogen organic fertilizer into the soil around the plants.
Weed often and mulch deeply to get the highest yields from your broccoli. Two inches of grass clippings or any other biodegradable mulch will keep the soil cool, the way broccoli likes it.
Cooking with Broccoli
Broccoli is a nutritional superfood that will strengthen your immune system, help maintain strong bones, and help protect you from cancer and heart disease. Broccoli is delicious raw, or you can steam florets for a minute and then plunge them into ice water before serving as finger food. Eat the stems by peeling away chewy outer skin, slicing them, and then cooking them along with the florets. Garden-fresh broccoli is tender, so be careful not to overcook it.
Friday, August 19, 2011
Growing Hops
Derek started growing hops for his beer making (specifically Kent Golding Hops). This is the first year the plants have produced abundant flowers for harvest. Following is a thorough hops growing primer by Peter Soper which gives great basic information about growing hops:
Hops for beer making grow from the rhizomes of female hop plants. Rhizomes look like root cuttings but have buds growing from them that will become new vines. Rhizomes also contain stored nutrients to support initial growth.
Hops grow vertically as one or more vines that spiral up a twine or anything else convenient. Depending on latitude, location, and variety, they sprout from about mid-March or April and grow through the summer and early fall. A single plant can easily grow 40 feet tall when it is mature but growth in the first year is usually much less. In most instances by the second or third year the plants will exhibit full growth. Height is very closely linked to the amount of sunshine the plant gets.
Hops grow best in full sun and you should pick a spot with the best possible southern exposure. Hops grow best in loose, well drained soil. Blended peat moss and sand make a good hops growing environment. In cases of poor soil drainage, it can be helpful to create a mound of soil a foot or so tall which will aid drainage.
Hops need lots of water. As they grow be sure to give them a very good soaking at least once a week. Mulch in the summer helps with weed control and also holds additional water. Also, hops have big appetites. Composted cow manure has been reported to be an excellent well balanced fertilizer.
Once a bed has been prepared the rhizomes are planted about four inches below the soil surface with any obvious buds coming from the rhizome oriented to point upward toward the soil surface.
After several inches or so the new vines should be thinned such that just the most healthy and vigorous three vines are left to continue growing. This will be an ongoing process as new shoots may show up later but the initial thinning is an important one. It's been reported that the young shoots that are culled may be steamed and eaten like asparagus. On the other hand, some growers espouse cutting the new shoots at all, allowing all vines to grow to full height.
As the vines grow over a foot tall they should be trained to grow up a twine. This can be done by twisting the vine around the line. You may have to repeat this for a few days before the vine gets the idea. Remember, like most plants, hops will "follow" the sun, and so have a natural tendency to wrap from east to west, or counter-clockwise looking up for a south facing plant.
The most common hops trellis consists of strings running from the roof of a building down to stakes driven into the soil near the plants. Another option, often used by commercial growers, consists of a large central pole, with strings running from the top of the pole down to the foot of each plant, similar to the spokes on a wheel. Expect the string or twine to hold a lot of weight as the vines grow tall. A 25+ foot plant may weigh 20+ pounds.
Hop blossoms start out looking like large sand burrs and then take on a characteristic cone shape and grow in size. The size of a fully developed cone depends on the variety, varying from one to two inches long by one half to one inch in diameter.
The hops are fully mature and ready for picking when two changes take place. First, immature hops have a damp, soft feel and when squeezed slightly tend to stay compressed. Mature hops feel more like paper, spring back when squeezed and feel noticeably lighter. The second key test is to pick an average example hop and cut it lengthwise down the center with a knife. When ready to pick the yellow powder (the lupulin sacs containing the essential oils and bitter substances that are "where it's at") will be a dark shade of yellow, like the stripes on a highway, and it will be pungent. If a light shade of yellow then chances are the hops are immature.
When ready to pick it is best to snip the stems of the cones with scissors or a knife to avoid jarring the hops and knocking lupulin powder out or worse, pulling the center of the cone out with the stem, causing a great loss of lupulin. Touching hops plants can cause skin irritation in some people; gloves and long sleeves can help in this matter.
Just picked hops are roughly 80 percent water; if left alone they spoil rapidly. For proper storage most of the water is removed by drying. A good drying method it to lie the hops on a card or screen in an attic. Just a few hours during the heat of summer or a few hours more in cooler weather is enough to dry the hops. Use a before and after weighing and trial and error to try to achieve about 7-10 percent residual moisture after drying.
After drying, hops keep best at low temperatures and away from oxygen. A kitchen freezer easily takes care of temperature but to get the hops away from oxygen is difficult. Tightly packing hops in canning jars will minimize the trapped air but be careful not to use too much force and break the all important lupulin sacs since this accelerates oxidation. Purging the canning jar of oxygen by blowing in carbon dioxide from a kegging system will also help prolong freshness.
It's common to get 4 or 5 harvests per year by picking the biggest, most mature hops every two weeks or so as the flowers ripen. Patience and judgement are important since cones left on the vine too long turn brown and are obviously oxidized and spoiled, while immature hops have little lupulin in them.
At the end of the growing season when the leaves have fallen or turned brown, cut the vines at the surface of the soil and if possible remove the twine. After cutting back the vines a layer of three or four inches of mulch and composted manure can be put over the exposed vines for insulation and nutrition during the winter.
Japanese beetles are the number one nuisance in many areas. A common remedy is to position a "Bag a Bug" type beetle trap about 30 feet directly up wind from the hop vines. There is some concern that the "Bag a Bug" traps may actually attract more beetles than they catch, but that probably depends on the situation. Certain plants such as rose bushes may also attract the beetles, so it's best to keep those plants away from your hops. Also, the beetles' larvae live in the ground, and in cases of extreme Japanese Beetle infestation the surrounding lawn may need to be treated accordingly. A number of other pests, such as aphids, can harm hops, and can be treated with any number of pesticides. Remember, though, that you will be consuming these hops, and should use low toxicity natural pesticides, such as 1% Rotenone dust, for direct pest control on the plants. As with any consumable, you should ensure that any pesticide is well washed off before using the hops
One other hazard is animals. A short fence of rabbit wire will keep cats, dogs, rabbits, etc. at bay. Deer have also been reported to be fond of hops.
Rhizomes are available from an increasing number of sources. American Brewmaster in Raleigh, NC and Freshops in Philomath, OR are two well-known suppliers. Cost is usually a few dollars each. They should be kept in plastic bags, moist and cold in your refrigerator until they are planted.
Additional information about hop growing can be found in "Homegrown Hops" by David R. Beach. Also, the 1990 special issue of "Zymurgy" is devoted to hops and contains an article about growing hops by Pierre Rajotte. The AHA also has additional hops-oriented publications.
 |
| Derek's Hops Flowers |
Hops grow vertically as one or more vines that spiral up a twine or anything else convenient. Depending on latitude, location, and variety, they sprout from about mid-March or April and grow through the summer and early fall. A single plant can easily grow 40 feet tall when it is mature but growth in the first year is usually much less. In most instances by the second or third year the plants will exhibit full growth. Height is very closely linked to the amount of sunshine the plant gets.
Hops grow best in full sun and you should pick a spot with the best possible southern exposure. Hops grow best in loose, well drained soil. Blended peat moss and sand make a good hops growing environment. In cases of poor soil drainage, it can be helpful to create a mound of soil a foot or so tall which will aid drainage.
Hops need lots of water. As they grow be sure to give them a very good soaking at least once a week. Mulch in the summer helps with weed control and also holds additional water. Also, hops have big appetites. Composted cow manure has been reported to be an excellent well balanced fertilizer.
Once a bed has been prepared the rhizomes are planted about four inches below the soil surface with any obvious buds coming from the rhizome oriented to point upward toward the soil surface.
 |
| Hops With Peek-A-Boo Mountain View |
As the vines grow over a foot tall they should be trained to grow up a twine. This can be done by twisting the vine around the line. You may have to repeat this for a few days before the vine gets the idea. Remember, like most plants, hops will "follow" the sun, and so have a natural tendency to wrap from east to west, or counter-clockwise looking up for a south facing plant.
The most common hops trellis consists of strings running from the roof of a building down to stakes driven into the soil near the plants. Another option, often used by commercial growers, consists of a large central pole, with strings running from the top of the pole down to the foot of each plant, similar to the spokes on a wheel. Expect the string or twine to hold a lot of weight as the vines grow tall. A 25+ foot plant may weigh 20+ pounds.
Hop blossoms start out looking like large sand burrs and then take on a characteristic cone shape and grow in size. The size of a fully developed cone depends on the variety, varying from one to two inches long by one half to one inch in diameter.
The hops are fully mature and ready for picking when two changes take place. First, immature hops have a damp, soft feel and when squeezed slightly tend to stay compressed. Mature hops feel more like paper, spring back when squeezed and feel noticeably lighter. The second key test is to pick an average example hop and cut it lengthwise down the center with a knife. When ready to pick the yellow powder (the lupulin sacs containing the essential oils and bitter substances that are "where it's at") will be a dark shade of yellow, like the stripes on a highway, and it will be pungent. If a light shade of yellow then chances are the hops are immature.
When ready to pick it is best to snip the stems of the cones with scissors or a knife to avoid jarring the hops and knocking lupulin powder out or worse, pulling the center of the cone out with the stem, causing a great loss of lupulin. Touching hops plants can cause skin irritation in some people; gloves and long sleeves can help in this matter.
Just picked hops are roughly 80 percent water; if left alone they spoil rapidly. For proper storage most of the water is removed by drying. A good drying method it to lie the hops on a card or screen in an attic. Just a few hours during the heat of summer or a few hours more in cooler weather is enough to dry the hops. Use a before and after weighing and trial and error to try to achieve about 7-10 percent residual moisture after drying.
After drying, hops keep best at low temperatures and away from oxygen. A kitchen freezer easily takes care of temperature but to get the hops away from oxygen is difficult. Tightly packing hops in canning jars will minimize the trapped air but be careful not to use too much force and break the all important lupulin sacs since this accelerates oxidation. Purging the canning jar of oxygen by blowing in carbon dioxide from a kegging system will also help prolong freshness.
It's common to get 4 or 5 harvests per year by picking the biggest, most mature hops every two weeks or so as the flowers ripen. Patience and judgement are important since cones left on the vine too long turn brown and are obviously oxidized and spoiled, while immature hops have little lupulin in them.
At the end of the growing season when the leaves have fallen or turned brown, cut the vines at the surface of the soil and if possible remove the twine. After cutting back the vines a layer of three or four inches of mulch and composted manure can be put over the exposed vines for insulation and nutrition during the winter.
Japanese beetles are the number one nuisance in many areas. A common remedy is to position a "Bag a Bug" type beetle trap about 30 feet directly up wind from the hop vines. There is some concern that the "Bag a Bug" traps may actually attract more beetles than they catch, but that probably depends on the situation. Certain plants such as rose bushes may also attract the beetles, so it's best to keep those plants away from your hops. Also, the beetles' larvae live in the ground, and in cases of extreme Japanese Beetle infestation the surrounding lawn may need to be treated accordingly. A number of other pests, such as aphids, can harm hops, and can be treated with any number of pesticides. Remember, though, that you will be consuming these hops, and should use low toxicity natural pesticides, such as 1% Rotenone dust, for direct pest control on the plants. As with any consumable, you should ensure that any pesticide is well washed off before using the hops
One other hazard is animals. A short fence of rabbit wire will keep cats, dogs, rabbits, etc. at bay. Deer have also been reported to be fond of hops.
Rhizomes are available from an increasing number of sources. American Brewmaster in Raleigh, NC and Freshops in Philomath, OR are two well-known suppliers. Cost is usually a few dollars each. They should be kept in plastic bags, moist and cold in your refrigerator until they are planted.
Additional information about hop growing can be found in "Homegrown Hops" by David R. Beach. Also, the 1990 special issue of "Zymurgy" is devoted to hops and contains an article about growing hops by Pierre Rajotte. The AHA also has additional hops-oriented publications.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Mint & Parsley Dog Treats
Ingredients:
2 tbsp fresh mint, chopped
1/3 cup fresh parsley, chopped
Directions:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F)
- Mix oil and eater, slowly add flour and all other ingredients, roll dough out on a flat surface.
- Cut with cookie cutters.
- Bake 35 minutes.
These treats freeze well. They have about 1 month shelf life in an airtight container.
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Making Mozzarella
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Sage and Tarragon Stuffed Squash Flowers
Ingredients:16-20 fresh squash flowers, still slightly closed
4 oz cup cream cheese
4 fresh sage leaves
2 tbsp fresh tarragon
1 clove garlic
1 egg
4 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
Directions:
- In a food processor, blend cream cheese, sage, tarragon, garlic and egg until smooth.
- Use fingers to gently pry open flowers. Scoop 1 spoonfull of mixture into each flower. Press closed.
- Use fingers to gently pry open flowers. Scoop 1 spoonfull of mixture into each flower. Press closed.- In a small skillet, heat olive oil over medium low.
- Place stuffed flowers in oil and fry on each side for 20-30 seconds.
- That's it! Enjoy as a side or on top of rice.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Making Lavender Mist
This simple recipe does not take much time, and it's a refreshing way to cool yourself down on these hot summer days.Ingredients:
250ml purified water
Peppermint oil, optionalSpritz jar
Directions:
- Boil 250ml water until it's bubbling vigorously.
- Add lavender essential oil. Mix well.- Wait until the mixture cools then pour the water into jar. Close tightly.
- Keep it refrigerated for later use (although not necessary).
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Making Lavender Oil
- Fill jar 1/2 full with dried lavender flours.
- Pour oil (I prefer olive oil) into jar until 2/3 full. Stir. Cover tightly and leave the mixture to steep for 2 weeks in a sunny windowsill, shaking every day.
- Lay a piece of muslin over the bowl and strain the oil. Gather up the muslin and squeeze the material to extract as much as you can.
- Transfer the oil back into the jar and add fresh flowers. Place on windowsill again. Repeat this process until you obtain the aroma you want.
- After final straining, pour the oil into a dark glass bottle.
- Store in a cool, dry, dark place.
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Peppermint Lotion
This peppermint lotion is so smooth and smells minty fresh. The key ingredient is aloe gel. It's simple to make and takes a mere 15 minutes.Ingredients:
1/4 cup shea butter
1/2 cup (fresh) aloe gel
1 Tbsp almond oil
1/2 tsp peppermint essential oil
Directions:
- Melt shea butter over medium low. Let cool just slightly.- Stir in all ingredients. Mix with a hand mixer.
- Cool. Blend.
- Scoop into glass jars.
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